How to install a drapery rod / curtain rod

By Matt Miller of ironhardware.com and irondraperyrods.com

Disclaimer:

Please do not attempt to install any hardware unless you know how to safely operate the necessary tools, and have a good understanding of what you are doing. The following instructions are basic guidelines for qualified installers.

Basic tools include:

Safety glasses, ladder, laser level, measuring tape, pencil, battery powered screw gun or drill/driver with 4" to 6" screw holder extension tip, hammer, 3/8 drill bit.

How to install / hang a curtain rod:

1. Tape 8 ½" x 11" pieces of paper on the wall where the curtain rod mounts will go to prevent unnecessary marks on the wall. It is usually best to put the mounts close to the ends of the Drapery rod, so that you have as much space as possible between the mounts to stack your draperies. If your drapery rod is 120" long, you might center your mounts at 119" to utilize the entire length of the drapery rod.
2. Hold one curtain rod mount up and make sure it is high enough so that the curtains will cover the top of the window. Higher than the top of the window by a few inches may look better, and block out more light. Using a pencil, mark the location of the bottom screw hole on the paper and set the curtain rod mount down while you pre-drill a hole into the wall just deep enough to make it easy to drive the screw nice and straight.
3. Holding the curtain rod mount in one hand, and the screw gun in the other, drive the bottom screw into the wall. Level the curtain rod mount, and drive in the top screw. If you do not hit a stud or adequate backing when installing wrought iron curtain rods, or any other hardware to your drywall, you will need wall anchors
4. Determine the thickness of your drywall (usually 1/2" or 5/8"). You can remove a switch plate to measure the edge of your drywall or use a bent wire in one of the holes you have created for the mounting brackets. We recommend Toggler brand or comparable "nylon winged anchors" because they will work with the decorative screws we provide, and will not fall into the wall like moly bolts if you should take out the screws to repaint the wall. they are available at most hardware stores including ace hardware, and home depot.
5. Put the finials on the curtain rod, go to the other end of the curtain rod, lay the (magnetic) level on top of the curtain rod, hold the curtain rod and the curtain rod mount together and raise them up so the curtain rod is level, and the other end is sitting in the curtain rod mount that you have previously installed.
6. Repeat step 3
7. Remove one finial, slide the rings onto the curtain rod, drop the curtain rod into place, and slide the curtain pins with curtains attached into the ring eyelets.
8. Stand back, pat yourself on the back, and admire the quality and beauty of your new curtain rods made especially for you by Paso Robles Ironworks.

How to install an extra long curtain rod:

If you are installing an extra long curtain rod with a center connector and center mount, mark the center of the window, and install exactly as above, one side at a time. This means, temporarily install both finials on one of the curtain rod sections, and mount that first half as if it were a separate curtain rod. Then using the same half section with finials installed, proceed to step 4 and install the third mount. Now you are ready to put the entire curtain rod together and with a helper, and proceed to step 6.

The following are basic directions provided with most winged anchors:

1. Drill the screw hole out to 3/8", fold the anchor wings in and tap the anchor into the hole with a hammer until it is flush with the wall surface. Insert the provided tool into the anchor and push until the wings "pop" out behind the back surface of the drywall.
2. If no tool has been provided with the anchors, a 6d nail may do the trick, try it on an anchor before you put it in the wall. Reinstall your wrought iron mounting brackets. Do not over tighten the screws. If you over tighten the screws, you may be able to get slightly larger screws (#10 or 12) to work without replacing the anchors.